Last summer I saw a travel feature on PBS about le Cinque Terre, and noted it as a place I simply had to see. This interest was reinforced by Rick Steves, who features it as one of the best spots in Europe to visit. It's the first reason I chose to come to Italy, and has been the ultimate destination throughout the course of my trip. And now I'm here!
Cinque Terre is in northwestern Italy, south of Genoa, along the Ligurian coast of the Mediterranean Sea. It is actually five tiny villages that are accessible to tourists mainly by train or by foot. The combination of seacoast, hiking trails along the rugged coast, inaccessibility and beauty make it a paradise for me. It's also a protected national park in Italy.
I'm staying in Riomaggiore, the first of the five towns. It's a good climb to get to my room...like working out on a stairmaster for 10-15 minutes every time I go up the 70 stairs and numerous footpaths. But I have a spectacular view from my windows, and the room is spacious and elegant. Though there are a many tourists here, it's merely a handful compared to the crowds I've seen in the other areas I've been to.
Last night I walked along the famous path, "La via dell'Amore"...the street of love, which is an easy, 30-minute stroll from Riomaggiore to the second town, Manarola. And just as I reached the end of the path, who should be walking toward me but Rick Steves himself! No lie! I told him that it seemed every other person in town had one of his books with them, and he asked me if I was having a good time. I said yes, and thanked him for the tips.
Today, I made a point to visit the other three towns. First, I rode the train to the fifth one, Monterosso, which is the town most like a resort. I didn't spend much time here...as my goal was to hike to the next town. From there, I hiked an incredible up-and-down trail for an hour and thirty minutes, with some of the most specacular views I could ever hope for. Much of the trail was a steep climb, making the 463-step trek up to the top of the Duomo seem like a stroll in the park. All along the path there were terraced vineyards, well-tended and seemingly endless.
For a good portion of the trail, the path was only 18-24 inches wide, so it was a challenge at times. But I loved it! The only thing that marred my pure enjoyment of the hike was when I ran into noisy people along the way. I like to be quiet in wilderness...it's one of the reasons I like going alone to places like this...to enjoy the sacred space, listen to the birds and the bees, notice everything in detail. When I'm distracted from that by people arguing, gossiping or singing at the top of their voice...well, it can easily ruin the mood. But I would just slow down or speed up to get past them, so I could get back to enjoying the view.
This path took me into Vernazza, the liveliest of the five towns. The trail from Vernazza to Corniglia would be another 2-hour hike, and I was getting worn out, so I just headed for the train station and rode the train to Corniglia. This is the smallest of the five towns, and didn't do much for me. So I headed out to walk the trail to the next town, Manarola.
This trail was an easy one, about 45 minutes, and once in Manarola I headed for the train station again. And who should be there waiting for a train, but Rick Steves again. Since he was standing right next to me, I took a photo of him this time, and got him to sign the pages from his book on Cinque Terre that I was carrying in my backpack. He's here to check things out for his next book, I guess.
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| Rick Steves! |
Tomorrow I move on, to Lucca, then back to Florence for the weekend.
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