L'opera a Parma

Originally published on: Oct 12, 2008

Attending the opera in Parma at Teatro Regio was a unique experience, though not one I’m likely to repeat anytime soon, at such an expense ($115). I bought my ticket online before I left, without really knowing how the theater is set up or where my seat would be located. I had seen part of the primo (the premiere) of Rigoletto on la tv a few nights earlier , and I was impressed with the stage presence of the soprano who played the role of Gilda. I was looking forward to seeing her in person, so was disappointed when she did not perform the night I saw Rigoletto. Her replacement was quite good, but she lacked the powerful energy I’d seen in the earlier performance.

My box seat was on the fourth of five levels of boxes (palchi) that curve around the stage. There were three chairs placed near the edge of the box, and two benches behind them. A group of three people were already sitting in the chairs when I arrived, but were instructed to move, since I had paid for one of those chairs. (I got the cane chair, while the others enjoyed the plush velvet chairs that matched the benches: the privilege of arriving early.) The benches were comfortable, but it was impossible to see the stage if one sat there: instead, the third person of that group stood behind us during the performance.

At the first intermission, I was asked where I was from, and once I admitted I was an American, the others were more friendly, even venturing to speak a few words of English. I learned they were from another region of Italy and had traveled to many of the best opera houses in Italy. During the course of the evening, one of the men often sang along with the performers, obviously quite familiar with the lyrics. I was intrigued by the passion of the audience, so eagerly intent during every moment of the performance, and their shouts of bravi and bis (encore) at the end of each act.

I really enjoyed the performance, which was masterfully done by all the performers and the orchestra. Next time I’d like to go to an outdoor performance, like they have in Verona or Rome, where the seats are more reasonably priced. Haruko has been to the Verona arena several times and has raved to me about it. But I’m glad to have had the chance to attend a first rate opera in a first rate opera house.

After the performance, I met up with Paolo and his family, who had also attended, and we were taken backstage, a privilege due to Paolo’s standing in the community. Then we went out for a quick pizza, and it was nearly midnight when we got back to the Palace.

With Paolo at Palazzo Ducale.

On my last morning in Parma, I walked around the centro storico (historic center) and hung out in the Parco Ducale one last time. The park was a comfort, an inspiration and a solace to me during my stay.