Grottammare

Originally published on: Oct 5, 2008

Michela, Michael and Roberto

Before I left Ascoli, I met with Roberto, Michela and Michael again. The four of us walked around the city for several hours, then Michael and I went out to dinner while Roberto and Michela headed for home. Before they left, Roberto took us to a restaurant he especially liked, and told the the waiters to serve us a meal of typical dishes of the region. It was another Italian feast, and quite delicious. Michael and I enjoyed both the meal and the conversation and feel indebted to Roberto for his generous attention during our stay in Ascoli.

The next morning I had my first experience calling a taxi, and managed just fine. I took a bus to Grottammare, and when I got off, Domenico was there to help me find the hotel. After I got settled in and walked around the town a bit, I went to the beach, just a few blocks from the hotel. It was a warm, sunny day, but the beach was nearly empty, and it seemed as if I had the coastline all to myself. During July and August, the town's usual size of 15,000 people doubles, but most of the year it is quiet, and I really enjoyed the tranquility.

On the beach in Grottammare.

Later that evening, Domenico returned and we walked along the Lungomare, a wide path that rims the beach, and is lined on either side with huge palm trees. We always seem to have a lot to talk about, and he helped to encourage my use of Italian while I was in his town by having these evening chats together.

The Lungomare.

The next day I decided to trek up to the old city, where Domenico had taken me the week before in the rain. Not many people live in this part of Grottammare, but it has a rich history. It's perched on a hill overlooking the coast, and the wall and towers built to defend the city were helpful for scouting and warding off pirates who came from the east. I spent several hours exploring the medieval streets that were nearly empty of people. After that, I returned to the beach and spent the afternoon there, enjoying the warm sun and the sound of the waves. It felt like a bit of paradise.

In the evening, Domenico came for another walk and chat along the Lungomare, then we walked to his mother's house, not far from my hotel. His younger sister, Ester, was also there, and the four of us had a lovely meal together, of tortellini and beef, peas, pickled eggplant and artichokes (I happen to like artichokes, which are common and plentiful in Italian dishes). This sweet Italian family made me feel truly welcome and it was a real pleasure to spend a few hours in their home.

Domenico with his mother and sister Cinzia.

The next morning I went out for a coffee, and when I strolled by the house of Domenico's mother, she waved to me and invited me in for coffee. She and Ester bustled around to prepare coffee latte and biscotti for me, though they had already finished their own breakfast. Without Domenico there, I was on my own to communicate only in Italian, but we managed well enough. I feel as if I forged a special connection with this family.

After making so many connections in Ascoli and Grottammare, this is the area I'm most interested in spending more in on my next visit to Italy. Two days by the sea simply wasn't enough. I'm thinking two months might be nice. I inquired about some inexpensive lodging while I was there, and found several options that seem promising.

Later in the morning, Domenico, always the gentleman, picked me up and accompanied me to San Benedetto, a few miles south, where the main train station for the area is located. It was so nice to have help with my luggage, which seems to get heavier as I continue my journey through Italy. I'm really grateful to Domenico for the many kindnesses shown to me while I was in Grottammare, especially since he's quite busy this semester finishing an engineering degree. I felt sad to be leaving the warmth of area: both the people and the beach.

I was warned that the train would probably be more crowded than the previous trains I'd been on, and this proved to be true. I was able to find a seat for the first several hours, but then had to stand once we arrived in Bologna and people with reserved seats claimed their stake to the seat I was in. By this time, the aisles were filled with people standing by their luggage, but I didn't mind, as it only lasted an hour and gave me a better view of the landscape we were passing by. This time I didn't have to change trains, and the 4½ hour ride seemed to go by fast, taking me north and west to Parma.