I can't help it....it seems like I'm in paradise, and I don't want to leave. It's that simple.
 |
| Parco Ducale |
At the moment, I'm in Parco Ducale...it's a beautiful fall day in Parma. On days like this, people come to the park to hang out with each other. Not to do anything in particular...just hang out. Retired men gather in the afternoons at the same bench and engage in passionate discussions. Many, like me, come to take advantage of the free wi-fi system. People stroll by, arm-in-arm, or ride by on old-fashioned bicycles, usually with a basket at the front. Huge chestnut trees are everywhere, shedding not only leaves but their fruit, and no one comes to clear anything away, so the ground is covered with a multi-colored blanket of leaves and chestnuts.
Earlier in the day, I went to the Correggio exhibit that is one of the main attractions in Parma this year. I haven't been to many museums on this trip, but I'm glad I made it to this exhibit. Before going to the main hall, there are two massive churches with Correggio frescoes to view. Elaborate scaffolding is set up to enable people to get nearly close enough to touch the frescoes that are painted on the ceilings of the cupolas of the churches. Hands down, this was my favorite part of the attraction. But after that, I spent nearly two hours more viewing the rest of the exhibit, which included paintings by Correggio collected in museums all over the world and gathered together for this exhibit in Parma.
 |
| The Coreggio exhibit. |
After this feast for the eyes, I decided to treat myself to a Parmesan specialty, tortelli di zucca. This pasta is somewhat similar to ravioli: it's stuffed with pumpkin and served with a bit of butter and freshly grated Parmesan cheese, nothing more. Exquisite! I also ordered a quarto (quarter of a liter) of red wine, and had a leisurely meal in an outdoor cafe on Piazza Garibaldi, watching other diners and enjoying the day. Next door to the cafè there's an exhibit of photos from the Verdi opera, La Traviata, and music from the opera easily heard from powerful loudspeakers. For me, this is paradise.
I can't adequately express how different life is in Italy, how deeply this country affects me, or how painful the thought of leaving it is. During these five weeks, I've met more than fifty people, and I can't imagine that it might be another year before I'll see any of them again. It's just not right.
 |
| Giovanna in Modena |
Yesterday I took a day trip with another new friend, Giovanna, to Modena, renowned both for its balsamic vinegar and as the birthplace of Luciano Pavarotti. I'd heard that Giovanna had recently moved to Parma from KC, and called her earlier in the week to see if we might meet. We spent the next two afternoons together, and I enjoyed having someone to travel with for a change. Giovanna's husband is a native of Parma and they decided their three kids might benefit from living near their grandparents and going to school in Italy.
 |
| Piazza Grande, Modena |
Modena is thirty minutes from Parma by train, and proved to be a good choice for a day trip. It reminds me of a smaller, quieter Bologna. We wandered the streets, visited the main sights and had a leisurely lunch. You may have gathered by now that in Italy, meals are eaten leisurely more often than not. Businesses close for 3-4 hours and one can easily spend two hours at lunch, chatting with friends, never hurried along by waiters to eat and run, as is usually the case in the States.
Tonight I'm headed for the opera, my first experience with this Italian tradition, on my last night in Parma. Tomorrow I leave for Firenze and a few days to visit friends before heading back to the States.
No comments:
Post a Comment