Bits and pieces: Castel Gandalfo, Firenze, Lago di Garda, Mantova, Parma, Rome, Sirmione, Sorrento, Zagarolo

Originally published on: Oct 12, 2009

Here I am in Sorrento, tucked away in a cabin-like room high above the city with a panoramic view of the Amalfi Coast. Or I will have when the clouds move out of the way.  On the bus ride up the hill, it started pouring rain, but it stopped by the time I had to get off the bus. The steep stone path leading to the hotel, which is some distance away, had streams of water gushing down, impeding my progress with my luggage. I left many things (books, heavy clothes, etc.) in the closet at Lidia’s house in Rome, where I will return at the end of the week. It’s been warm during my entire stay in Italy, and I’ve hardly even needed a jacket. But the weather seems to be changing today.

There is a large window beside my bed, overlooking a garden filled with fruit and olive trees: the olives have just been harvested and are collected in bins around the yard. It’s a bit early for harvesting, but it seems they decided to trim the trees and collected the olives before cutting the limbs.

It was somewhat of a convoluted journey to get to Sorrento.  I stayed with Lidia last night in Rome, and this morning she and Carlo drove me to the Metro to take the subway to get to Termini, the main train station. I caught a train to Naples, which took about 2 hours. From Naples, I took another train, called the Circumvesuviana, which took another hour, making about twenty stops along the way. Once I arrived in Sorrento, I was put off by the crowds of tourists, who seem to be mainly Germans, Brits and Americans. I guess I’m getting to be somewhat of a snob, as I prefer to be around Italians when I’m in Italy.

Time to backtrack a little, just a short overview of what I’ve been up to.

Parma:  Pietro drove Renata and I to Mantova and Lago di Garda and the town of Sirmione one day. I enjoyed the ride through the countryside north of Parma. The next day, Renata and I took the train to Bologna, but we were both put off by the noise and the crowds, so we only stayed a few hours and returned to Parma after meeting up with her daughter, Francesca.

The next night I met up with Marco, a pediatrician, and his wife, Marvi. They drove from the nearby town of Modena, and we spent the evening together, eating a great meal at an outdoor cafè, laughing a lot, then having gelato while we walked along the streets of Parma’s historical center. I had planned to walk back to Renata’s house, but I had too much wine and Marco insisted on driving me instead, which turned out to be another adventure, first trying to hail a taxi to get to Marco’s car (for some reason, it was almost impossible to get one), then trying to find Renata’s house from a map, all while feeling a bit drunk. But I arrived safe and sound and really enjoyed my time with Marco and Marvi.

The next day, Renata and I rode bikes downtown to meet Giovanna for espresso at the same outdoor cafè I’d been to the night before. I was introducing the two of them to each other. When Renata had to leave an hour later, Giovanna and I strolled around Parma for a while, then I spent another few hours riding around town to the various parks I enjoy. Unfortunately, every time I tried sitting on one of the park benches, swarms of mosquitoes showed up to ruin my enjoyment of the day. They’ve been frequent visitors on this trip, as the weather continues to be mild and warmer than usual in Italy.

Firenze : I left Parma on Friday to spend the day with Haruko in Firenze. Renata was leaving for a long weekend in France with her sisters, so it seemed a good time to move on. Haruko and I had a great time walking around our favorite areas, eating lunch and gelato, then hanging out on the terrace at my hotel. In the evening there was a thunderstorm, complete with thunder and lightning, which was something I had not experienced before in Italy. Even though Florence was noisy and crowded, it was nice to be in such a familiar place again. I’m thankful that the hotel I usually stay at had a room available on such short notice, they even gave me a double room for the price of a single, since I’m a regular guest and they didn’t have a single available.

Il Bargellino

Zagarolo : On Saturday, I took the train to Rome, then another to Zagarolo, to meet up with Deborah, who needs a house-sitter while she travels next year. She has a lovely house out in the country, and a large yard filled with olive and fruit trees, including cherry, fig, and pomegranate. One of the neighbors harvests the olives each year and gives Deborah a few bottles of olive oil after it’s been processed. Across the road is a small vineyard that produces a white wine called Tufaio. We met with the owner, a friend of Deborah’s and we sampled a bottle, along with biscotti. If I’m around in the fall, I can help with the vendemmia, or wine production. Deborah and I hit it off well, as we have many similar interests, habits, and ways of thinking. She prepared several wonderful meals for me and really made me feel welcome in her home. I met her cats and rabbit, who are the main reason she needs a house-sitter while she is gone. At the end of my stay, we agreed that I will come for several months in the spring when she wants to travel to Mongolia.

After five visits to Italy where I’ve spent most of my time moving from place to place, I’m eager to stay in one spot and see what it’s like. Living in the country will be a different kind of experience, but one I’m ready to tackle.

Rome : On Sunday, I caught the train back to Rome, and the metro out to the EUR district, where Lidia and Carlo live. After I stashed my bags at their place, we drove to a lake 15 miles southeast of Rome, Lago di Castel Gandalfo. Overlooking the lake is Castel Gandolfo, where the Pope has his summer villa. A friend of theirs, Carlo’s first English teacher from many years ago, lives near the lake, and we met up with him there. On the way back to Rome, we got stuck in the long line of traffic, a common occurrence on the weekends, when Romans leave the city for the day and then all try to return at the same time on Sunday evening. Carlo referred to it as “traffico bestiale”. Once back at their flat, we had a lovely dinner, and I got to meet their daughter Yuli.

Sorrento : I went into town for the afternoon, which is a good distance away from my hotel. I walked down the hill instead of taking the bus, and it soon became clear that a storm was brewing. Huge black clouds and fierce winds were followed by rain, and the temperature dropped by at least 10 degrees: too bad I left my warm clothes at Lidia’s house. When I decided to return to the hotel, the bus did not show up, and several of us were left wondering what had happened. Finally someone told us that the piazza is closed to traffic after 7:30, and we would need to walk to another bus stop to catch it. We walked at least a half mile, and waited another 15 minutes before one arrived. I was the last one on the bus, and it dropped me off in a different location than where I’d come before, forcing me to walk along a steep, dark drive for another 10 minutes, with the wind howling around me. It’s the creepiest experience I’ve ever had in Italy,there were no lights, no people, no indication of where I was or where I was going. Finally, I reached the hotel and my little cabin. I don’t think I’ll be staying out after dark again while I’m here.

É finito!

Originally published on: Oct 17, 2008

Ponte Vecchio in the moonlight.

My last few days in Firenze were poignant, as I visited my favorite haunts and spent time with Haruko. I also met with another blogger, Melinda, who moved to Firenze four years ago and has been blogging about life in Florence since that time. Melinda took me to a great cafe, Caffè Giacosa, where we could sit without being charged extra, and we talked for several hours while waves of Italians came and went, quickly sipping their morning espresso and eating dolci, sweet pastries.

Melinda, in front of Caffè Giacosa.

In the afternoon, Haruko and I met up and went to visit a profumeria (perfumery) near the church Santa Maria Novella. We tried many of the scents, which have been made in the same way, from flowers and herbs, for centuries, but I couldn’t bring myself to fork over 70-80 euros for a small bottle of the heavenly scents. Maybe next time!

We walked around town and eventually ended up near the Santa Croce church. While Haruko made a stop at an internet point, I scouted around for a trattoria where we might have lunch. I found one that offered a good bargain: primi e secondi piatti, l’acqua e vino, (first and second course, water and wine) for only 10 euros. Once we entered the restaurant, we both realized it was the same restaurant where we had our final meal together two years ago. Only the decor had changed, and later we learned that the trattoria had changed hands this past August. It’s named after Dante, the famous Florentine poet:¦a name I’m not likely to forget. (I’ve followed Dante’s trail in and around Florence, and then to other cities where he traveled after he was exiled from the city, including San Gimignano, Lucca and Ravenna, where he died.)

In addition, the food was even better than last time. For my first course, I had zuppa di fagioli, a typical Tuscan soup with beans, and Haruko ordered gnocchi, a small dumpling-like pasta. For il secondo, she ate Trippa Fiorentina: a tripe dish that was quite delicious, and I had an exquisite beef dish, Peposa dell’Impruneta. When we left, we told the waiter we had been there two years earlier, and he kissed our hands and wished us a speedier return to his restaurant.

After another visit to a favorite gelateria, we wandered around to our favorite haunts, along the fiume Arno, to view the Ponte Vecchio in the moonlight, Piazza della Repubblica, Piazza della Signoria and the Duomo one last time. Haruko suggested I just not go home, that I could forget about getting to the plane and just stay in Italy. If only! But at least we both feel certain we’ll meet again, and certainly in Italy. Perhaps it will be sooner than either of us thinks possible.

The next morning, I was up at 4 am to catch the shuttle to the airport at 5:30 for my 7 am flight. A woman saw me standing at the bus stop and informed me that the shuttle no longer stopped there…the stop had moved across the street to the train station. I would certainly have missed the bus if not for her warning: once again I had the sense of being looked after.

I easily made my flight to Amsterdam, and endured the transition from the warm, playful chaos of Italy to the efficient, cool reserve of Amsterdam. The contrast worsened when I arrived in Memphis and was bombarded with smells of barbecue and the sloppy attire of my fellow Americans. Already, I missed the sensual, vivacious approach to life that comes naturally in Italy. Life is certainly more voluptuous in Italy, and I feel certain it’s where I belong, if only to learn more about la dolce vita: the sweet life.

It’s taken me a few days to readjust to life in America: it’s cooler and wetter here, and my body rhythms still seem to be on Italian time. I’m wading through the 1000 photos that I made while in Italy, and will post a few of them on this blog throughout the many entries about my journey.

Firenze, Arcetri

Originally published on: Oct 12, 2008 

For my last train ride, I took the Eurostar, which is more expensive, but it’s more comfortable and faster than other trains, makes fewer stops and did not require any train changes along the way. It proved to be a very relaxing two hours, and when I arrived in Firenze, it took me less than ten minutes to arrive at my hotel, the same one I’d stayed in last month, so I was settled in by 3 pm.

Hanging out with Haruko

While on the train, Haruko and I had exchanged text messages, and had made plans to meet that evening, In the meantime, I spent a few hours shopping at the outdoor market in San Lorenzo, not far from my hotel. I managed to negotiate with the vendors so that I got some good bargains. Since it was Friday afternoon, the beginning of what promised to be a beautiful weekend, I expected to see crowds of tourists swarming into town. At my hotel, the rooms were all taken by Americans, and it was an abrupt change to hear English being spoken more than Italian.

Haruko and I met about 5 pm and walked across town to the flat where she’s staying, the same area of town where we first met two years ago, when we were rooming with an Italian woman while attending an immersion school to learn Italian. At Haruko’s flat, we spent a few hours talking, then she prepared a simple but delicious cena (dinner). After several more hours of visiting, I took the bus back to my hotel late that night.

Walking to Arcetri

Saturday morning I decided to try and find Arcetri, where Galileo lived. I had heard there are beautiful views from the hills there, and I wanted to check it out. After having such easy access to the Parco Ducale in Parma, I was missing the presence of trees, not as easy to come by in a city like Florence. I walked up into the hills along a quiet, nearly empty road for several hours, but the view was obscured by walls on both sides of the road. 

Galileo's house.

I finally made it to Arcetri, got a glimpse of the view, and found Galileo’s house on the way back to Florence. After nearly four hours of walking, I decided to treat myself to gelato at Vivoli’s Gelateria, supposedly the best in Florence because they only serve freshly made gelato. It was good, but costly, and I’m not sure it was that much better than the cheaper places in town I’ve been to.

Paola

Saturday evening I was invited to Paola’s house for dinner, but when I arrived, I learned that plans had changed, and instead we were going to a party at one of her friend’s houses. We were picked up by a couple who drove us across town to the party, which turned out to be a feast of food and wines from Puglia, in southern Italy. The husband of the couple who were throwing the party had cooked many of his favorite dishes from Puglia, including meatballs, cavallo (horse), polpo (octopus), pizza with potatoes, lasagna, and many others. With each dish, he also served a different wine, as he is also a wine expert. Naturally, I had to try a bit of everything, and ended up getting stuffed to the gills: uncomfortably so. And after all that, there were desserts and dessert wines to taste as well. After all the food I’ve been eating the past few weeks, I can tell that I’ll need to spend more time dieting once I get home. (addendum: Good news! Instead of gaining, I actually lost several pounds while traveling. Seems like the Italian lifestyle is a good one for me in MANY ways.)

I felt immediately welcome and comfortable in the group of some twenty Italians at the mega cena, including four or five people who could speak English quite well. In the background of the constant conversations going on at the party, there was a video of music and dance from Puglia, which added a nice touch to the evening. This was my first exposure to the food and culture of southern Italy, and I’m thankful to have been included in the festivities.

Firenze: A Period of Adjustment

Originally published on: Sep 16, 2008

After arriving in Florence, it took me a few days to get accustomed to life in Italy. For one thing, I arrived to a blast furnace of 90-degree weather, a city crowded with tourists and noise. Honestly, it made me wonder why I had come. I stayed at a familiar hotel near the train station, but there was no air conditioning, and the other guests were a group of couples from Seattle traveling together and they monopolized the terrace in the evenings. (I have noticed before when traveling that couples are often sufficient unto themselves, and do not often invite conversation with me: it's usually other single women or women traveling together that do so. On the other hand, I don't really try to join them, so perhaps we're equally at fault.)

Though the hotel has wi-fi, it didn't always work, so that was frustrating at times, but no real biggie. I found an internet cafe down the street that only charged 1.50 euros per hour, and can use that as a backup when needed. Then, when I tried to buy a cell phone to use while in Italy, I was told they could not sell me one unless I had an Italian I.D. Hmmmmm. Bummer. I had really counted on that. Things started to perk up as I rode the bus across town to visit my friend Paola, a native of Florence who writes books on teaching English for specific purposes.

Paola could not pick me up, as my hotel was near the town center, an area typically congested with tourists: most cars are not allowed in centro, downtown, until late evening. What I enjoyed about the bus ride was that when I asked the bus driver if he stopped at Piazza Nobili, a woman near me mentioned that she was going there and would show me which stop to get off at. (All spoken in Italian!) She moved over to let me sit near her and we had a pleasant conversation, still in Italian, on the 20-minute ride across town. I held my own during our talk, and that felt good. I started to feel that magic was once again on the horizon. Paola took me to dinner at a trattoria near her house, and we had a good long chat. She drove me back to the hotel and we made plans to meet again when I return to Florence at the end of my trip.

The next day, Friday, was set aside to hang out with Haruko, who had also just arrived in Florence. We had last met in Tokyo last March, and before that, in Bologna last October. I was hoping she could help me find a store that would sell me a cell phone, since she had bought one like it last year. The phone I was looking for was a cheap model that can only be used in Italy, but it uses prepaid phone cards that I can buy whenever I need more minutes while traveling in Italy. I figure I can even rent it to friends who might need a cell phone while in Italy. On previous trips it was no problem buying prepaid phone cards for public phones, but it was always a pain to find a public phone, not to mention one that worked and was not in a noisy area.

I woke up early that day, and headed out at 8 am to get to Giotto's Campanile by 8:30 and climb to the top. I was the first one to show up that morning, and it only took about 20 minutes to climb the 414 steps to the top. Though not as tall as the nearby Duomo (with 464 steps), the views were pretty spectacular. It seemed an easier climb than the Duomo, which I managed to do 2 years ago, not just because I'm much lighter than I was then, but the ascent was also more straightforward. The Duomo has a series of winding staircases that seem neverending.

Haruko and I arranged to meet in Piazza San Marco, not far from my hotel. Earlier in the day I had located a store where I could buy a phone, and so we went there first and bought it. We went back to my hotel to get it charged, and realized we needed some help to figure out some necessary things, like changing the language from Italian to English, and how to activate the prepaid phone card. Once that was done, we decided to walk across town to Piazzale Michelangelo, which boasts wonderful views of the city. I'd been there once before, on my first trip, when my friend Marco had given me my first tour of Florence, and wanted to see it again.

On the way, we stopped at Piazza San Ambrogio, where there is an open market every day, and had lunch at a famous cafe inside. It is one of those places where mostly Italians come to eat, sitting together and chatting up a storm. We sat at a table between two young women and two older men, trying our best to converse in Italian like everyone else around us. The men who cooked and served the food were some of the hardest workers I have ever seen, literally running back and forth with food and drinks to keep up with the lunchtime crowd, inevitably stopping to have a chat along the way. I had melanzane parmagiana (eggplant parmesan), quite superb, and only 4 euros (less than $6.)

By the time we got to Piazzale Michelangelo, we were too hot to really enjoy the view. I suggested we look for the nearby gardens that Marco and I had visited, but found they had closed at 1 pm. Instead,we decided it was time for a gelato treat, so Haruko led the way to her favorite gelateria, near the briege Ponte di San Trinita.

Once refreshed by gelato, we crossed il fiume Arno, the river, looking for a quiet spot to sit. One of the things I enjoy most about Haruko is that we can spend hours together, not really doing anything or talking all the time, but just hanging out. I do not have many friends I can do that with, but it seems to be easy with Haruko. It probably helps that we hang out together in cities like Florence, Bologna and Tokyo, where there is a lot to take in.

We couldn’t find a quiet spot, but to get out of the sun, we decided to sit along the cement steps on the back wall of the Loggia Lancia in Piazza Signoria, one of our favorite places in Florence. This is where everyone seems to congregate, the very same piazza where the mad Savonarola was burned at the stake in the 1500's, and where giant statues of David, and Neptune dominate the square.

Within a short time, we heard the roll of thunder and the crowd quickly began to disperse as raindrops fell. We started walking back towards my hotel, and ducked into a bookstore we both like just as it started to pour. Along with many other people, we were stranded in the bookstore for nearly an hour, while Florence was freshened by the rain. It cooled the air and cleaned the dusty streets in one fell swoop. By the time the rain ended, it was 6 pm and time for Haruko to head back to her friend's flat, so we said our ciaos, with plans to meet again in October, if not before, if she decides to visit me in one of the stops along my route.

I was beat by the time I got back to the hotel, and used the evening to read, catch up on email, and pack for the next day's trip to Lucca. Little did I know I would find my route blocked when Florence trains were frozen by un'altro sciopero, another train strike.

Arrivederci Italia

Published on: Oct 25, 2007 

After Parma, I returned to Florence for a few days, happy to stay again with Carmel and Pino at their hotel, Il Bargellino. The first night back, they invited me to a yummy dinner of homemade polenta con porcini (mushrooms), made by Pino's friend. Lucky me! We watched Italy's version of "Funniest Videos" while we ate, usually one of my all-time least favorite TV shows. But we laughed a lot, and it was nice sharing a meal with them. The weather had turned colder over the weekend and the city was less crowded, though there were quite a few Norwegian Cruise tour groups seeing the sights that Monday, a day when many museums are closed.

On the terrace at Il Bargellino, Florence.

I flew out at 8 a.m. on Tuesday morning, and spent the next 19 hours en route to my home, via London and Minneapolis. Long waits between flights, and Gatwick airport was an uncomfortable, cold zoo. In comparison, the Minneapolis airport was serene and enjoyable. Once I arrived in Kansas City, the shuttle picked me up and I was home by 8 p.m., gaining seven hours on the return flight. Jet lag hasn't been too bad, but I still feel a bit disoriented. I wasn't eager to leave Italy, but I was a bit weary from traveling around, so now I can rest for a few months before I start thinking about the next journey.....Venice, maybe? Anyone want to go with?

One of the treasures I came home with is a Moka Express espresso coffee maker, Lavazza coffee, and intricate instructions on how to make good espresso from two Italian men. The first man was the owner of the store where I bought the coffeemaker. Sure, I can find one in downtown Lawrence, but I wanted one from an Italian store. The store clerk took great care to help me decide which model to buy, steering me away from the more expensive ones, and describing in detail how to use it. He was very attentive, and I wandered around the store while he showed me a photo of his grandmother as a little girl with her parents, standing in front of the store when it opened. When I had chosen several items to buy, I told him they were intended as gifts, and he carefully wrapped each one in wrapping paper and ribbons.

In Urbino, I noticed a similar thing on Sunday morning, as people walked by carefully holding packages wrapped in red, green or pink paper and tied with a ribbon. Turns out it was their purchases from the nearby pasticceria (pastry store): gift-wrapped packages of dolci (sweets) for the Sunday meal. In Bologna, the purchases we made at the Majani chocolate store were also wrapped neatly and tied with ribbons. It's a simple elegance that we don't see often in the States.

A couple with their morning pastries in Urbino.

OK, let's get back to coffee...when I got back to the hotel, I inquired about what kind of coffee to use, and Pino told me what to buy and where to find it, then gave me even more specific instructions on how to "cure" the coffeemaker, how to fill it and use it properly for the best taste. Italian coffee is quite delicious and unlike anything I've found in the U.S. I can't hope to replicate the flavor without one of their magical espresso machines, but perhaps I can learn to make a reasonable facsimile. Chissa? Speriamo! (Who knows...let's hope so!)

One of the last places I visited in Firenze was Mercato Centrale, where you can find many colorful displays of all kinds of fresh food.

Firenze

Published on: Oct 7, 2007

Just a short note...

I'm in Firenze...it's been hot and crowded...TOO crowded. The Internet cafes are also crowded, so I've been avoiding them. This one is crowded with Asians talking on Skype in various languages, so it's hard to think. Yesterday I walked nearly 10 miles around town. Several of the churches I wanted to see were closed, but I did manage to visit the Brancacci Chapel and Orsanmichele. I'll tell more about those when I get home. Today I'm going to try and get out of the city.

One of the bright spots so far is the hotel I'm staying in. It's recommended by Rick Steves, so most of the guests are American....go figure. The owners are Carmel and Pino, an American woman from Boston and her Italian husband. I'm one of the few guests who speaks Italian, so he's been testing my skill. Ohime! He likes to sing, which is nice. The place is spacious, with funky antiques, statues and paintings along the halls and marble staircase. Best of all, there's a huge terrace where the guests can gather on the roof of the building, and it overlooks other yards. The terrace is filled with plants and several bird cages, lounge chairs, and a long table under a canopy. It's very peaceful up there, a nice place to write or visit or enjoy the pealing of church bells.

I have another day here, then I'm off to Assisi. Some of the guests have been there on a day trip and are envious that I've planned 4 days there.

Last days/nights in Firenze

Originally published on: Jan 13, 2007

After I returned from Rome, I had another week of school in Florence and more art to peruse. One important stop was to visit il David, Michaelangelo's famous sculpture that stands 17 feet tall in la Galleria dell'Accademia. I'd seen copies of David outdoors in Piazza della Signoria and Piazzale Michaelangelo last May, but wanted to see the real thing this time. In November, there was no need for a reservation like most other times of the year, so I wandered over one day after class. As I wasn't allowed to take a photo of it, here's one I got from the web...

Another highlight of this last week was visiting Casa Buonarroti, Michaelangelo's family home. What drew me there was a painting by Artemesia Gentileschi that she painted in 1613 on the ceiling of one room in the house, commissioned by Michaelangelo the Younger, the great-nephew of his famous uncle. It's called The Allegory of Inclination, my favorite Gentileschi painting. I'd first learned of this Renaissance painter several years ago from the novel The Passion of Artemisia, by Susan Vreeland.

Artemisia was one of the first women Renaissance artists to achieve fame or recognition.
She lived most of her adult life as a quasi-single parent, supporting herself with her art. Recent interest in her work has established her as one of the world's greatest female artists. For more information on her life and art, here's a link to a website that tells it all:
www.artemisia-gentileschi.com/index.shtml

I was able to capture this shot of the painting before I was advised it was not allowed.

Another fun thing I happened upon was a market in Piazza di Santa Croce. Colorful booths were set up with vendors selling crafts and food from Germany. YoYo told me later that these vendors come every year during the Christmas season, and it's an event that Florentines looked forward to. I came across a similar market in Milan, and will have photos of that in the next entry. But I did take a photo of a statue of Dante, another famous Florentine and author of The Divine Comedy, that stands in front of Santa Croce.

While in Florence, I spent several evenings out with Paola, another penpal. One Friday night she invited me to dinner at her home, where I met her children Margherita and Leonardo. Paola prepared a typical Italian meal of pasta, followed by the most exquisite eggplant parmesan I've ever eaten. (She said the secret was using fresh eggplant, (melanzana) bought from a local vendor.) Our meal was accompanied by homemade wine from one of her neighbors and lots of laughter. I treasure being invited into her home and the friendship that we've established.

I spent the last several days in Florence visiting my favorite haunts, including Ponte Vecchio and the Arno river. Here's a view at sunset.

By this time, it was the first week in December, and all the Christmas lights were up. Haruko and I spent several evenings taking a stroll through town to view them. This one is in Piazza della Signoria.

This is on la via dei Calzaiuoli.

 This is the Neptune fountain in Piazza della Signoria.

  

  

 And here's a reprise of Piazza del Duomo from earlier in this blog.

 

The day I left Florence, it was misting, as it had the day I arrived. I walked halfway across town to la stazione Santa Maria Novella (train station), pulling my bag across the uneven cobblestones, reluctant to leave what is starting to feel like my second home. Next, I return to Milan to spend my last few days in Italy. 

Life in Florence

Origianlly published on: Jan 11, 2007

I enjoyed every moment of my stay in Florence. The school I attended set up lodging for me with a retired signora, who we called YoYo. She lived in a flat on the fifth floor of a building on one of the busiest streets in Florence. She was quite a character, eager to share stories of the art, architecture and history of Italy. She said she enjoyed having me around because I was "interested in culture," and most of the students who stay with her have not been. (They are often quite young.) But on the flip side of that, she had to get her nightly "fix" of the American tv show, Texas Ranger (dubbed, of course). I resisted her constant invitations to watch the program with her. Here's YoYo in her kitchen, where she served us breakfast each morning.

Another student at the school, a young woman from Japan named Haruko, also stayed with YoYo while I was there, and we became good friends.

We walked to school each morning, shopped at the San Lorenzo Market (below), and had some nice meals together at various places in Firenze. We also strolled on weekend evenings through the streets of the city center, taking part in the Italian custom of the passeggiata.

We went to Ponte Vecchio several times, and here's a photo I took there one evening.

My room at YoYo's was nice and cozy. I loved looking out the huge windows each morning to see what kind of weather we would be having. Though it rained several times, it never got really cold and the weather was pleasant during most of my stay.

Here's the wild chestnut (castagno) tree that was outside my window. It still had most of its leaves in early December!

Another view of the kitchen, where Haruko and I often had long talks in the evening.

For two weeks, I went to school every day for four hours. I was thrilled to have learned enough on my own to be placed in the second level (out of 6) of Italian language courses. There were about 10 people in the class, from Canada, Guatemala, Japan, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Britain, and the U.S. I did well in the first two hours of grammar, with our teacher Ester. I often spent two-three hours every night studying my lessons, so I was well-prepared for each class.

I struggled more in the second two hours, when our lively teacher Monica led us in conversation. I could follow most of it, but I haven't had much practice speaking Italian, so I was behind most of the others, who were often fluent in Spanish or French. In general, I thoroughly enjoyed my experience at the scuola, I loved my teachers, and I'm eager to return for another round of immersion Italian. Here's me with YoYo.

Florence, Duomo e Baptistery

Originally published on: Dec 31, 2006

I can't explain it, but Firenze calls to me. Even now, as I go through my photos, I feel an eagerness to return, an ache for the beauty and history so evident there. I recently learned that Florence was first established as a Roman colony in 59 BC. (YES, that's 59 BC!) However, it wasn't until the 13th century that it became famous for its textile industry and its banking sector. As trade flourished in Florence, and the Medici family came into power, wealthy patrons contributed to the flow of art and artists to the city, and it became the cultural and intellectual heart of Europe.

One of the views that always grabs me is the sight of the Duomo, the cathedral Santa Maria del Fiore. It serves as a centering device, helping me to get my bearings wherever I am in Florence. I've written more about its history in the April and May archives of this blog, so won't go into that here, but here are a few more photos taken in November. The building of the Duomo began in 1296 and the dome was completed in 1436, but the cathedral facade was not finished until 1887. It's impossible to give any real perspective via photos of this enormous church, the fourth largest in Europe. Every day when I walked around the corner of la scuola, where I was studying Italian, its impressive presence never ceased to fill me with awe. Here are a few images of it:

a street view

from the front

 

from Piazza del Duomo

 

details from the Piazza

 

Standing beneath the campanile, designed by Giotto,

finished in 1359, 22 years after his death.

This next photo is a favorite of mine, as it shows Brunelleschi, who designed the infamous dome (built without scaffolding!), looking up at his creation.

Across from the Duomo sits the Baptistery, with its famous bronzed doors, that dates back to the 4th century, making it one of Florence's oldest buildings. Many famous Florentines, including Dante, were baptized here.

  

 

Details of Ghiberti's "Gate of Paradise," finished in 1452.

These doors are copies of the original panels, which reside

in the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo.

Inside the Baptistery dome, with 13th century mosaics covering the ceiling.

Arrivo a Firenze

Originally published on: Dec 30, 2006

I love traveling by train in Italy. It's an easy matter to look up train schedules on the internet (at trenitalia.it), and most trains in Italy are pretty reliable, comfortable and affordable. The only hassle I had this time was hauling a large bag around, one I bought at the last minute to accommodate the winter clothes, boots, umbrella and raincoat I'd been advised to bring, but never really needed, as it never turned cold during my stay. I much prefer traveling light and making do, as I did on my last trip. (And will do again on the next one!)

From the train station in Arquata Scrivia, I caught a train to Genoa, a port city along the Riviera. As we moved away from the misty mountains and down towards Genoa, the air was suddenly warm and moist, and I enjoyed the sunny, seaside views on that leg of the trip. In Genoa, I changed trains for Pisa, and in Pisa, I changed trains again, the last part of my journey to Florence. This part of the journey was familiar to me, as I'd gone this route on my previous trip last May. The only photo I took of my train travels this time is shown below, of a young man sacked out on the floor behind me. At least I hope he was sacked out...it was hard to tell what condition he was in, as he looked pretty lifeless. Still, it was an amusing sight...

All in all, on my journey from Milan to Florence (via Gavi), I traveled through four of Italy's regions: Lombardia, Piemonte, Liguria and Toscana...each region with its own distinctive terrain, all of it a feast for the eyes.

I arrived in Firenze that afternoon, and took off from la stazione with my heavy bag in tow, walking down the narrow streets in the misty afternoon. As it turns out, I took a circuitous route, so it was nearly an hour later when I found the park across the street from the flat where I'd be staying. The park in Piazza D'Azeglio became a landmark for me, as I walked by it several times each day on my way to and from school. I was mesmerized by the tall trees and their beautiful fall foliage.

Over the next two weeks, I would watch the leaves slowly fall to the ground and stay there, in layers of color. There were no breezes to move them, no custodians to sweep them away. They became, quite literally, a carpet of leaves, lasting the whole of my stay in Firenze.

At one end of the park there's a carousel, which is lit up at night with green and blue lights. I rarely saw it being used, but it was there, ready and waiting for children to enjoy it.

After taking time to enjoy the park, I crossed the busiest street in Florence and located the flat that would be my home for two weeks. Stay tuned for the next installment of life in Florence.

An Italian Adventure

Published on: Dec 7, 2006

If I could say just one thing about going after your dreams, it would be this: Just Do It!

I've just returned from my second trip to Italy this year, and I can only wonder why I ever doubted it could be anything but transforming. I met wonderful people, ate delicious food, saw amazing art and architecture, successfully completed two weeks of immersion Italian study, made many new friends and had a wonderful time. I'll be sharing the highlights of my trip on this blog, as time permits.

In the meantime, here's a photo I took last Saturday night in Florence. This image gives you an idea of the impressive size of the Duomo, with the red-tiled cupola, that dominates the center of the city. Next to the Duomo sits Giotto's campanile, or bell tower. I was enjoying the passeggiata with my friend Haruko that night, dazzled by the Christmas lights and taking the evening stroll with thousands of others in the Piazza del Duomo. This image sums up my recent Italian adventure: simply magical!

Arrivederci Firenze

Published on: May 15, 2006

My last two days in Florence were filled with many strong images. On Sunday, after visiting the Duomo, I headed out to the Uffizi Gallery, where I had a reservation for 9:30 am. One of the most prestigious art galleries in the world, I'd made reservations online before coming to Italy to ensure the time and day I wanted to get in. Without it, the wait can be for many hours, especially on the weekends. Here's the view outside the entrance.

Some of the greatest works of art from the Renaissance can be seen here, including works by Botticelli, Da Vinci, Rafael, Giotto and Michaelangelo. A great majority of the pieces have religious themes, focusing on the Madonna and Child or The Annunication, for instance. They also had a special exhibit on Da Vinci, with some of his original writings. My favorite pieces in the museum were Botticelli's Birth of Venus and Primavera, expressing another favorite theme of Renaissance painters, Classical Mythology.

I saw more of this mythology theme on Monday at il Museo degli Argenti at the Palazzo Pitti. Before that, I spent three hours perusing the vast expanse of the Giardini di Boboli, another Florence gem that was laid out in 1550 for the Medici family, and opened to the public in 1766. I arrived at the gardens early enough to have the place to myself for nearly an hour, until busloads of Italian children arrived for fieldtrips. I walked many paths like the one below, with trees arching over the walkway.

Here's a view of the rose gardens, with thousands of peonies in bloom. The air was perfumed with their sweet scent.

The gardens lie behind the Palazzo Pitti, which the Medici acquired in 1550 as their family residence. Here's a view of the back of the palace, from the gardens.

A young Italian man took this photo of me sitting in one of the many grottos in the gardens.

I spent the rest of my last day in Florence revisiting the many spots that were now familiar to me, from Ponte Vecchio to the Duomo; from the San Lorenzo markets to the Piazza della Signoria. Ponte Vecchio, or old bridge, was built in 1345 and was the only bridge to escape destruction during WWII.

One of the favorite pastimes of Florentines is the evening stroll, or "passeggiata," and I became very fond of spending my evening hours along with everyone else, strolling the streets of Florence or hanging out in the piazzas. On my last night in Florence, I hung out for several hours at la Piazza di San Giovanni, near the Duomo. There was a group of young adult Italians sitting to the right of me, and groups of young adults from a variety of countries sitting to my left. And it's true that they stroll...people of all ages, arm in arm, walking along together. It's somehow more elegant and old-fashioned than holding hands, as we tend to do in the States. Below is a photo of the scene in the piazza that evening.

Another thing that I grew fond of in Italy was the pealing of the bells: in every town, at various times, you'd hear bells pealing from tall towers. Sometimes it was to mark the hour; other times it would ring just before the hour...I never understood the system that seemed to change from town to town, but I figured there was some sense to it, if I really cared to find out.