Amalfi and Ravello

Originally published on: Nov 21, 2009

Ravello turned out to be one of the most incredible places I visited this year.

Infinity Terrace, Ravello

After a rainy day in Positano, I was overjoyed the next morning when I awoke to a clear day. I watched the sunrise from my hotel window as the coastline emerged from the darkness. I ate a sumptuous breakfast, part of the package at most Italian hotels, and set out early for Amalfi, the largest town along the coast. I had bought my bus tickets the previous day, so was able to catch the bus outside the hotel. I waited with an Australian couple...and waited, and waited. Finally, after about thirty minutes, we heard the musical honking of the bus as it maneuvered around one of the curves of the road.

All along the Amalfi Coast, from morning until night, you can hear buses honking to warn other vehicles of their presence, as the road is barely wide enough to manage two cars, much less two buses at the same time. For the most part, traffic flows smoothly along the coastal highway, but there are times when two buses going in opposite directions arrive at the same point on one of the highway curves, and it is simply not possible for them both to make the curve at the same time: one of them must back up to allow enough room for the other to pass. But it seems to be done as a matter of course, taken in stride as part of the travel experience along the coastal road. I had read numerous accounts of the 'scary' drive along the coast, but I did not find it to be so: in fact, it was quite the opposite. It was awe-inspiring to be able to view the coastline from the edge of the road, and it reminded me of driving along the California coast near Big Sur.

Amalfi

The bus arrived in Amalfi about 11 am, and I headed for the center of town where the Duomo sits, with its magnificent colored facade. Many buses from Sorrento and Salerno were arriving at the same time, filled with tourists from tour groups and cruises. Ick! As they began to fill the streets, shopping for souvenirs and limoncello, I decided to move on to Ravello, hoping to be ahead of the crowds now visiting Amalfi.

Amalfi's Duomo

I caught another bus, and arrived in Ravello, which sits at the top of a hill and has incredible panoramic views of the coast. There are two villas with gardens to visit, and most people opt to see Villa Rufolo, the one closest to the bus stop. Instead, I headed across town to find Villa Cimbrone, along a stone path that led me past many terraced gardens and vineyards. It was about noon by this time, but I saw few people along the route, which took about 20 minutes to walk.

Small vineyard in Ravello.

When I arrived at Villa Cimbrone, I was one of the few people there. I'm not sure why it is such a thrill for me when this happens, but to be in one of the most beautiful settings in the world and have it all to myself is one of the great pleasures of my life. I was there, on the Terrace of the Infinite, alone, for nearly 30 minutes. Incredible! I know most people prefer to share moments like this with other people…but I prefer to see beautiful landscapes by myself, at least the first time. If other people are around, they are usually talking, and it distracts me from paying attention to the details of the experience. In the past, I used to think how much better it would be to have someone to share such things with. But when I have been with other people, even loved ones, I found I enjoyed it less. Sometimes I found others have even ruined the experience for me with their chatter or because they didn't enjoy it as much as I did, and wanted to move on.

The view from Villa Cimbrone is phenomenal.  After a while, more people started arriving in the gardens, and I headed back to the main part of town. Oh boy, was it crowded! The cruise buses had arrived, and hordes of people were streaming into Villa Rufolo. I decided not to go in, as it seemed impossible that it could compare with the beauty I'd seen from Villa Cimbrone. As it is with most places, I feel certain I will return in the future, so I don't feel the necessity of cramming every sight in. I will see Villa Rufolo another time.

On the way back to the town center, I stopped at one point to sample some freshly made limoncello and bought a small bottle of the potent liqueur to give to my friends in Rome. It was exquisite, the best I have ever tasted, and I wish I had a gallon of it here at home! (Later, Lidia gave me a recipe, as it is quite simple to make: maybe I'll try it next summer.)

I headed back to Amalfi, wandered along the main streets, and found a deli that served insalata al mare, a salad of seafood that was incredibly delicious. Accompanied with foccaccia and a bottle of water, I had a wonderful meal sitting at an outdoor table in the main piazza across from the duomo.

Lunch in Amalfi.

Amalfi is a town I would like to explore more in the future, but I was ready to head back to Praiano by 4 pm, and wanted to beat the crowds that would soon be headed back to Sorrento. Sure enough, there was a line of people waiting for the bus, and we ended up waiting more than an hour. I ended up on the same bus with the Australian couple I'd met that morning, which was a lucky thing, as they knew where to get off on the way back. The bus was pretty crowded, with people standing in the aisles, so I was glad we would be getting off quickly.

In Praiano, I dropped my things off at the hotel and trekked into town, hoping to catch the sunset from the western end of town. I was not disappointed. I sat near the town center, near a group of elderly men having a lively discussion. Below me, children were happily playing ball in the piazza near the duomo. I watched the sun set for nearly an hour, enjoying the ambiance of the village life, the pealing of the church bells, the beauty of the seascape before me. A little bit of paradise.